While
looking out on the deep snow in our backyard, my thoughts turned to the way the
trails will look and feel when warmth returns to our mountains. That had me thinking about some of my
favorite hikes, which had me daydreaming about the trails, or sections of
trails, that are my favorites. But I
wanted to whittle it down even further. So
here is something a little different: my
ten favorite one-mile stretches of trail in the White Mountains. It was difficult to limit it to only ten,
which made this list both a challenge but as fun to put together as a Christmas
list. I also have no doubt that given a
certain mood on a different day, some of my choices might change. Even as I get ready to send this off to my
good editor, I am contemplating switching out a couple for others that are very
special.
I’ve
listed them in no specific order.
*The
first mile of the Attitash Trail heading from Bear Notch Road to Table
Mountain. The woods are enchanting – an
ethereal place of fairy songs and wood nymphs.
Louisville Brook runs crystal clear next to much of the trail and you
are compelled to stop and gaze into the rushing current. At the end of a long hike, it is an excellent
place to linger. There have even been
some days when our only journey consisted of walking a mile in along the brook
to hear its song and wade through the cool water.
*The
mile that stretches from Little Monroe to Mount Franklin along the Crawford
Path in the Southern Presidentials always reminds me of something from out west. The high grass leans with the wind and the
mountains fade off into an eternal blue heading toward various ranges to the
south and west. It’s enough to make you
believe that these mountains never stop.
*The
first mile north along the Franconia Ridge Trail after the Following Waters
Trail intersects with it is something that will hook you on hiking for a
lifetime. Looking toward Little Haystack
is breathtaking enough, but to then walk along the ridge and see heavenly peaks
and valley rising and falling is breathtaking.
You want to laugh and scream and cry and pray and shout “thank you!” all
at once.
*There is a haunting mile that stretches from the summit of Mount Starr King to summit of Waumbek. There the wind sighs, and sometimes roars, from the north through the saddle. What sits there are ancient trees and fallen trees and young trees and great draping ribbons of Old Man’s Beard, that moss that reminds you of the south. To me there is no finer example of life and death existing side by side along a trail. It is a mile of bewitchment, especially when the wind cries and wraps you in its mournful spell.
*Entering
the Kate Sleeper Trail from the South Tripyramid Slide will make you feel like
you’ve stumbled into fictional realm.
One where there’s a greater chance of seeing a moose than a person. That
first mile you will find the allure of fallen red needles and wild green ferns
and a sea of quietude. Part of the charm
of this trail is that it’s nearly always silent, other than the stir of breeze
or wind, because there isn’t an easy way to get to it, or a reason to traverse
it.
*Coming
off the Twinway and cresting the summit of Mount Guyot you’ll see a land of
giants. These are mountains you’ve seen before, but not like this. Not from this angle as you walk down about
two tenths of a mile and then take a turn left for another eight tenths on the
way to the Bonds. This is the one trail
I find myself daydreaming of the most. Perhaps
because it is a difficult place to get to at Atticus’s age and I realize we’ll
most likely never walk this path together again. I still remember the first time. My legs went
weak and my heart raced. “Such a place
exists?” I exclaimed in wonder.
*Just
before reaching above treeline on the Champney Falls Trail heading up Mount
Chocorua, turn there is a short cut off to the left toward the Three
Sisters. It brings you out to the quiet
open ledges where you most likely won’t see other hikers. (Although we only do
Chocorua at times when others are not there, so we don’t worry about the
attending summit throng.) The summit
horn is a stunning place to stand atop of, but to see the horn as you approach
and traverse the Three Sisters above treeline is even more special.
*Officially,
the trail over Mount Clay, which stands between Washington and Jefferson, is 1.2
miles, but what’s two-tenths of a mile between friends. I’ve always liked crossing over Clay with
views to the behemoths of the White Mountains such as Washington, Jefferson,
Adams, and Madison, our four highest mountains, and contrasting views down into
the Great Gulf. (Then again, there are
many trails in the Northern Presidentials that could make this list.) Hold onto yourself on a windy day!
*Heading
from North Kinsman to South Kinsman along the Kinsman Ridge Trail you move
through a wonderful twisted forest shaped by wicked storms and when you get
closer to South Kinsman the views of Franconia Ridge and Moosilauke open up and
you feel like you are walking across a moonscape. One of my favorite views is looking back at North
Kinsman (it looks as though the eastern half of the mountain has been sheared
off) and how the trail runs through the woods, marvelously close to the eastern
edge. Something about the sight of it
taunts my fear of heights. (One
Christmas Day Atticus and I followed moose prints along the trail, but never
saw the magnificent beast.)
*Climb
up the Stony Brook Trail and when you intersect the Carter-Moriah Trail on the
way to Mount Moriah, you’ll notice the woods have a medieval feel to them.
Pockmarked signs along the trail, boards to balance on across the mud, and then
comes the expansive tiers of ledges that have you looking down as you go
up. Below is the lush Wild River Wilderness
one of the quietest spaces in the mountains, and there are views to Evans Notch
and into Maine in the distance, but not a sign of civilization.
This
was such an engaging exercise, I asked hiking friends Ken and Ann Stampfer to
add their own ten favorite mile long sections.
Their list follows below and they have also stipulated is in no specific
order.
*Bicknell Ridge Trail to upper junction with Baldface Circle Trail.
*Crawford Path from junction with Webster Cliff Trail toward Mount Eisenhower.
*Davis Path from Mount Crawford to Mount Resolution (via Mount Parker Trail).
*Garfield Ridge Trail from Skookumchuck Trail to Mount Lafayette.
*Greenleaf Trail from Greenleaf Hut to summit of Mount Lafayette.
*Gulfside Trail from Thunderstorm Junction to Madison Hut.
*Mount Guyot to West Bond via Twinway, Bondcliff, and West Bond Spur.
*Kenduskeag Trail from Rattle River Trail to Shelburne Moriah.
*Kodak Trail toward Mount Cube after Hexacuba Shelter Spur.
*Willey Range Trail from A Z Trail to Mount Field.
*Bicknell Ridge Trail to upper junction with Baldface Circle Trail.
*Crawford Path from junction with Webster Cliff Trail toward Mount Eisenhower.
*Davis Path from Mount Crawford to Mount Resolution (via Mount Parker Trail).
*Garfield Ridge Trail from Skookumchuck Trail to Mount Lafayette.
*Greenleaf Trail from Greenleaf Hut to summit of Mount Lafayette.
*Gulfside Trail from Thunderstorm Junction to Madison Hut.
*Mount Guyot to West Bond via Twinway, Bondcliff, and West Bond Spur.
*Kenduskeag Trail from Rattle River Trail to Shelburne Moriah.
*Kodak Trail toward Mount Cube after Hexacuba Shelter Spur.
*Willey Range Trail from A Z Trail to Mount Field.
Hi Tom Stacy and I know where to start when we get there!!! We can feel the moments of Spring coming at us !!! Very much appreciated as well The best to you and Atticus ♥♥♥♥
ReplyDeleteCarriage Road (AT) from the Glencliff junction to the summit of Moosilauke?
ReplyDeleteMahoosuc Notch?
Buswell Ridge to the top of Ragged Mt., if that counts as the Whites?
I find myself wishing I lived on the East Coast when I read these descriptive passages, but at least I can enjoy these hikes vicariously through your words.
ReplyDeleteHere it is, 6 weeks later, and I have a comment for you! My daughter and I finished our list on Bond/WBond (Bondcliff was done a while before). We wanted to see the famous Guyot sunrise and the West Bond sunset. We hiked from Zealand at night so we could see it - it was beyond anyone's comprehension of beauty - full moon setting and day dawning. The pinks, purples, and peaches of the sky were beautiful. What a giant full moon! It happened to be an Indian holy day which is on the July full moon and honors one's teachers. It was exquisite. We set up our tent at Guyot, slept a little bit, and went to the Bonds. And our famous West Bond sunset? Number 48 was all fogged in! Haha. I am glad that you and Atticus had a few chances to go to the Bonds. Enjoy your experiences to come!
ReplyDeleteAs always - your articles are astute and insightful
ReplyDelete